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You might find the following posts to be very helpful:
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Happy Sewing! Continue reading »
This video was created by Niler Taylor and placed on YouTube with embedding enabled. Visit her Playlist on YouTube.com.
You might find the following posts to be very helpful:
Sewing Accessories & Supplies.
Happy Sewing! Continue reading »
Before you lay out your fabric for cutting, you want to make sure you have a nice flat surface to work on. You don’t want to use anything soft, like a bed, because it’s not very stable. You might end up with some strange looking pattern pieces, and you don’t want to ruin them or have to start over with new fabric.
The pattern cutting board is a great piece of equipment. This can be laid on a bed or a table. It opens flat to be placed on the cutting surface, to enlarge and protect it, and folds up easily for storage. It is made of lightweight cardboard and fabric can be pinned to prevent slipping. There is also a one-inch grid to help on-grain placement of the fabric. This comes in 36″ x 60″, which is perfect for 45″ or 60″ wide fabric.
When you’re cutting fabric, I recommend a nice pair of bent-handled shears. These are best for cutting fabric because the blades rest flat against the cutting surface, and you don’t have to lift the fabric when cutting around the pattern. The 7- or 8-inch lengths are the most common. Left-handed models are also available.
The rotary cutter and rotary cutting mat aren’t an absolute necessity, but they come in handy for quick straight or curved cutting, and will go through several layers of paper or fabric, especially nice for cutting quilt squares.
Laying Out The Fabric
First, refer to the pattern instructions and find the pieces required to make your project. Find the layout for your fabric width. For example, the layout for 45″ wide fabric will be different than the layout for 60″ wide fabric. You will see the layouts on the pattern instructions.
The pattern pieces will be numbered. Cut out the appropriate pattern pieces (not the fabric, just the pattern pieces you will be using). These are templates and can be used over and over again. These pieces are what you are going to place on top of the fabric that is being cut.
You want to lay out your fabric on the cutting surface. With right sides together, fold the fabric according to the pattern instructions. The fabric will usually be folded longwise along the 60″ side, but sometimes you will have to adjust the fabric to fit the pattern pieces. Make sure you follow instructions and place the appropriate pieces along the fold. Pieces that are on the fold will be opened up after they’re cut so that it is all one piece instead of two halves. The following video will show what these will look like when placed on the fabric.
The next step will be to pin the pattern pieces to the fabric. If you are using a pattern cutting board, you can also place a few pins through the fabric to the board so the fabric doesn’t slip.
After you’ve cut out all the pieces, you will then refer back to the pattern instructions. Find the page that shows the garment you’ve chosen to make.
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More tips on “Using a Sewing Machine”
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This video will basically show you how to read the back of a pattern envelope in order to help you choose the right size pattern, as well as to see the notions that are required to make the garment.
If you have never bought a pattern from a fabric store before, you are in for a treat. I love browsing through all of the pattern catalogs. The most common ones are Butterick, McCalls, and Simplicity. There are catalogs for men, women and children. There are catalogs with Halloween costumes and other themes.
The catalog will show you a picture of the pattern envelope along with the pattern number. After choosing the pattern you want from the catalog, the next step is to find the actual pattern. Patterns are usually stored in file cabinets by pattern number.
Next, look at the back of the pattern envelope where it shows the different sizes, and the amount of fabric and notions required.
Using the body measurements that you wrote down, choose a size that has the measurements closest to what you need. The patterns leave a little bit of room, so don’t worry if it’s off a little bit. For example, if your bust is 39″ use the amounts for a 40″ bust.
Next, look at the part of the pattern where it tells you what type of fabric would be appropriate for this garment. For example, cotton, wool, silk, etc. Do not choose a fabric that is plaid or has stripes. These fabrics are more difficult to sew and that would need further lessons.
The pattern will tell you the minimum width of the fabric you need. Fabric usually comes in bolts of 45″ wide or 60″ wide. If possible, choose a fabric that is 60″ wide. This will usually give you extra fabric that may be used for adding a belt or some other embellishments. Look at the amount of fabric required for each garment. You might want to buy an extra 1/4 to 1/2 yard of fabric.
Next, look at the part of the pattern where it lists the notions required for the garment you have chosen. For example, if the pattern is for a skirt and jacket, but you only want to make the skirt, see what notions are required for just the skirt. In this example, you would need 1-1/8 yards of 1-inch wide elastic.
Lastly, don’t forget to choose matching thread. This is the beginning of building up your thread collection.
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This video shows how to take body measurements, choose a pattern, and purchase the notions and supplies.
Body Measurements
On a piece of paper write down the following:
With a soft cloth or vinyl tape measure:
Bust = Measure around the fullest part of the bust.
Waist = Measure around the waist
Hips = Measure the fullest part of the hips.
These are the three basic measurements when picking out a pattern.
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Now that we’ve threaded the upper thread, it’s time to thread the lower bobbin thread.
We need to place the bobbin in the lower bobbin case and pull up the thread. The bobbin is usually right below the needle in the bobbin case. Sometimes, with a free-arm sewing machine, there might be a removable section that will have to be removed to get to the bobbin case.
There are two different types of bobbins, a metal bobbin case or a drop-in bobbin.
Some machines have a metal bobbin case where you place the bobbin inside a case that fits into a small compartment. By holding the latch you can pull out the case and place the bobbin inside, making sure the thread is going counter-clockwise. There is a groove on the side of the bobbin case and you want to bring the thread through that groove and along the side until it comes through a hole. There is an extension piece that comes out from the side of the bobbin. Make sure the thread lays in front of the extension piece. Then, pull the latch, which will hold the bobbin in place. The extension piece will be pointing up and you will see that it lines up with the bobbin case compartment. You might have to turn the bobbin case until you hear it snap into place.
The drop-in bobbin is much simpler. You can usually see it through a clear plastic cover that slides out. You then drop the bobbin into the compartment, with the thread going counter-clockwise.
The next step is to pull up the bobbin thread so that it joins with the upper thread. While holding the upper thread, turn the wheel toward you. You will see the needle go up and down, and then it will pull up the bottom bobbin thread. Grab the bobbin thread and while holding it along with the upper thread, bring the two threads toward the back of the machine so that they are out of the way.
This video will show you how to thread the sewing machine.
Okay, the next step is to insert it if it’s not already there. The top part of the needle is wide and flat on one side. There is a small screw that needs to be loosened in order to place the needle up through the groove, flat side facing the back. Tighten the screw and you are ready to thread the needle.
Next, place the spool of thread on the back thread spool spindle. Make sure the thread is going counter-clockwise.
Now, not all sewing machines are exactly the same, but the principle is the same. Most manufacturers place a diagram on the machine to follow. This video will show you the basics, but make sure you refer to your manual to make sure you are doing it right.
You will guide the thread, along the guide marks, up and down and, finally, through the needle. You will probably need to cut the thread to make sure it’s not frayed so that it will be easier to thread the needle. Sometimes it helps to place your finger behind the needle so you can see the hole. Then, while holding the thread between your other fingers, push the thread through the hole.
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This video shows how to thread and wind the bobbin.
Before we can start sewing, we must thread the machine. This involves threading the upper thread and the lower thread. The upper spool of thread, when threaded through the needle, is what creates the stitches on the top side of the fabric. The bobbin thread, when picked up and pulled through the hole to join the upper thread, is what creates stitches underneath the fabric.
The first step is to wind the bobbin. This is done by placing the bobbin on the top bobbin pin, then taking the thread from the thread spool pin and winding it around the bobbin. When the bobbin is pressed against the bobbin winder, you can now wind the bobbin with thread. Refer to the operator’s manual to see if you need to release the knob inside the wheel in order to stop the needle from going up and down. Some machines automatically stop the needle when winding the bobbin, others have to be manually adjusted.
Then, press the pedal and the bobbin will start turning. The harder you press the pedal, the faster the bobbin will spin. When the bobbin is completely full, it will stop automatically. You will then remove the bobbin and cut the bobbin thread from the spool thread. You will need to lock the wheel knob again, if that’s how your machine works.
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Take-Up Lever:
Upper Thread Tension Dial
Upper Thread Guide
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This video touches on some important parts of the machine. For example:
Thread Spool Pins:
The back pin holds the top thread that threads the machine.
The front pin holds the spool of thread that is used to wind the bobbin.
In some older machines, the top thread spool is also used to wind the bobbin. This is somewhat inconvenient because you have to remove the spool that threads the needle and replace it with the spool used for winding the bobbin.
We’ll discuss threading the machine later on, but I just wanted to point out that there are two thread guides. One is for threading the needle of the machine, and the other is for winding the bobbin.
Bobbin Winding Spindle
I use Coats & Clark Dual Duty All-Purpose Thread. Start out with some basic colors – black, white, brown, navy blue. When purchasing fabric, always buy matching thread. Then with each sewing project you can add to your thread collection.
Presser Foot Pressure Regulator:
To increase the pressure, push down on the inner pin. For ordinary sewing, the inner pin should be pushed all the way down. To decrease the pressure push down on the outer ring.
Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches, or difficulty in guiding the fabric.
When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, decrease the pressure. When sewing lighter weight fabric, increase the pressure. If feed dog or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, decrease the pressure.
Most home machines don’t have a pressure regulator. If it does, it is usually preset by the manufacturer and very rarely requires adjusting. Refer to your manual to identify the parts to your machine.
This video was created by Niler Taylor and placed on YouTube with embedding enabled. Visit her Playlist on YouTube.com.
You might find the following posts to be very helpful:
Sewing Accessories & Supplies.
Happy Sewing! Continue reading »